The Restoration log from '98
Topics Covered:
Wiper Motors Pertronix Ignitor Soft top maintenance Ammeter woes Clutch repair Engine swap Engine top end rebuild/cleanup
Events below are in reverse chronological order, FYI.
12/26/98:Pump cam works. After letting the epoxy harden, then I wrapped the arm with some 'glass cloth soaked in resin, then worked out all the air (I'm glad I learned to fix fiberglass when I started surfing!) After curing, the repair seems bulletproof. I'm still going to fab a spare to keep with me just in case.
12/22/98:Accel pump cam. I went out to start the engine to keep the battery charged and oil circulated, and I had a devil of a time trying to keep it running. Mashing the gas caused it to die instantly. After a few minutes, I remembered that's just what it did when I put the engine in and found the cam lever had broken. The local carb shop couldn't get one (discontinued part), and Holley said it was obsolete. I used 2-part epoxy to set the arm in its original position. After a few days of hardening, I cut some fiberglass cloth and resined it around the shaft, making sure I had plenty of contact with the cam itself. A couple more days of setting up/hardening (cold temps around here), and it seems pretty solid. I'm going to use the old broken cam that was on the 196 to make a backup I can throw in the glove box. I've got some 1/16th fiberglass plate from the R/C car days and I'll make a sandwich of two pieces for the arm so I can slide them along the same axis to increase or decrease the throw of the arm to give more or less cam action at a given point.
11/22/98:Gas leak fixed? I've noticed that when I was doing the wiper swap, there was a strong smell of gas after shutting off the motor. I looked at the base of the carb, and it appears that gas is seeping through the gaskets I have between the carb and intake. I took out the paper-core version and have yet to road test it. SO far, it doesn't do the same thing yet. Of course, it leaked when I didn't have the vacuum hose to the wiper motor plugged. Another interesting tidbit is that the motor ran smoother with the line unplugged as opposed to me putting my finger on the end to block it off.
11/11/98:Wiper motor. The driver's side wiper has steadily been wiping slower and slower, so I rebuilt the last ramaining motor I had and put it in in place of the original. I now have two wipers that work great! They're very easy to rebuild, too!
11/16/98:Another problem solved. The brake light went out when I jiggled the connection at the brake block and the firewall connector, so there was no need to dig any deeper (although the fluid in the master cylinder was full). I also found why the oil seemed to be seeping all over the place. I put a PCV valve inline fromt he vent on the valve cover to the air cleaner, and that coupled with the flame arrestor caused too much restriction for some reason. A few days of driving will tell me if I've nailed that problem, too. The Pertronix ignition seems to give the engine a wider power band, but I still get a little backfire through the carb when it's cold and I stomp on it. :( I should have the Accell coil in the next day to see if that helps.
11/13/98:I go out to warm up the truck for the drive into work and I notice that the Brake light is now lit! It wasn't lit yesterday when I gave it a test start, either. I shut it down until I can take a look at it this afternoon. :-(
11/9/98:New goodies. With all the talk on the IHC Digest about the Pertronix Ignitor system #1481 for the 196 engine from Northern Auto Parts . It took me a while to figure out how to get the magnets out of the small ring that slips over the distributor cam. It turns out that you can use a knife blade at the seam just above the raised outside ring to remove the top cover from the unit. The magnets inside are highly willing to relocate to join their neighbors, too. After bumping the starter over until the rotor was pointing at the #1 ternimal of the cap, I slipped the ring onto the distributor cam and lined up where to put the first magnet in. Then, just skip every other hole and put a magnet for the other cylinders. When I first carnked it, I was only getting a spark from the 2 and 3 plugs. Lots of playing with the air gap and switching the 70's coil for the original from the '68 152 didn't help. On a whim, I rotated the magnet ring 90 degress clockwise, and now the other cylinders fired, while the 2 and 3 didn't. I took the top off the magnet ring several more times to re-orient the magnets on the problem cylinders so that a different side was facing out. I finally hit on a winning combination and all four fired normally. I timed it at 4 BTDC as a starting point and after a short drive, it feels stronger and is less prone to lugging through a corner in the wrong gear. (yeah, yeah, a highly scientific test, I know). I've got a friend getting me an Accel SuperStock coil to complete the transformation. Hopefully, my mileage will improve greatly, as I was averaging around 15 on the way to Hatteras if I kept my foot out of it.
10/19/98:Spare tire rack. Well, the Previous Owner must have backed into something along the way, and tweaked the spare tire carrier a bit. It's been one of those things that's bugged me for a long time, so I finally took it off so I could straighten it and repaint it to a non-rust color. I just need to find something to ease the main hoop back to the way it must have been. The hardware for the latch was very worn and I can now see why it rattled so much. A little hollow rod and some new bolts should help it.
09/19/98:Little stuff. I took the truck to Hatteras for a few days and had only minor problems. One, My Ammeter showed a regular charge, but the inside glass of the guage showed condensation like it did when I was having the over-charge condition a while back. I wiggled the sense wire on the alternator and all is well again. Also, when making a turn, sometimes I'd hear a clunk. I thought it might be a loose wheel bearing or a leaf spring as had been discussed on the IHC Digest. Further investigation revealed that it was due to the broken tailpipe hangar letting the free-swinging muffler knock into the frame. A $4 hangar at NAPA fixed it like it had been before.
08/31/98:Oil drops. On the back of the Scout, I notice where oil flew onto the tailgate, etc from the suction effect while going down the road. I guess I overfilled it just a tad, and I also noticed that oil was bubbling out the dipstick cap that I had re-welded back onto the stick. The engine compartment was cleaned up from the little splatters. I then found that the rattle is due to the clutch linkage having some less-than-tight tolerances between the clevis and pin in a couple of places. I put a spring on the lever that goes through the bellhousing and that seems to have taken care of it. I piled some solder around the hold in the dipstick cap, but I don't think I got it clean enough for a good repair.
08/29/98:No news was good news. Being the glutton for stress that I seem to be, I decided to take the Scout down to the Outer Banks for a trial run on the sands. On the way down all seemed fine (except for an intermittent rattling from the clutch area) until I hit Rodanthe and heard a dragging metal sound after a bump. Pulled over and the muffler wasn't attached to the header pipe any more. I got it connected again after a short coold down and found the real cause was that a nut came off the bolt that joins the header and the pipe, allowing for play at the first muffler clamp. Once on the sands, all was well. On the way home, the rattle came and went with more regularity. By the time I got home, I noticed that it went away with clutch pedal pressure and that when the engine caused the truck to vibrate, the sound came around. I parked it until I could get light on it.
08/19/98:Top seams. It must be 'that' time of life for the threads on the truck. The soft top had threads pull out when I removed the support that suns from the windshield to the middle support bow. On each side! More needle/thread and they'll hold until I can get a place to run a real seam back into it with heavy duty thread.
08/18/98:Visor repair. Old age has attacked the sun visors and the threads have begun to rip out. A needle, some thread, and an hour later, I've got visors that are sealed once again.
08/17/98:It happened again, so I took the original
Voltage regulator out and put in the one from the '70. WOW!
It actually shows a steady decrease in charge after I start
instead of the jittery action it used to have. Also, when
running at speed, the needle stays right at the middle mark
and doesn't bounce around. On deceleration, it acts just as
smooth as I'd thought it was supposed to act. It looks like
I may have figured this one out finally! 08/15/98:No such luck. Well, on the way home from
showing the truck to my auto parts source, Kevin, the ammeter
pegged out once again. After more adjustment of the belt, it
showed no change, so I tapped on the regulator with the handle
of the screwdriver and the charge went normal again. Hmmmmm....
08/13/98:Alternator again. Before, I'd mentioned
that the alternator would sometimes sit on full charge if
there were any revs on the motor. Leaving a v-ball match
yesterday, the belt started squealing, and the guage pegged.
I tightened the belt and the guage acted normally. Same thing
happened today without the squeal. Tightened the belt again
and all is normal. That could have been the problem all along
before when I had this happen. I also note that the crank
pulley on the 196 is a larger diameter, and is spinning the
alternator faster, and maybe that's why my guage doesn't look
like it's as jittery as it had been before (at normal
operating speeds).
08/11/98:Legal! I took it to an inspection station
that actually had time to see me, and after a quick trip home
to tighten the muffler clamps and to get the reciepts for
all the brake parts, I got the state sticker applied! Time
to start road testing it to work this week.
08/08/98:Window stuff. I'd had trouble getting the
screw out of the passenger vent window so that I could put a
new piece of plastic slider material on the front of the
window. I'd gotten it loose, but it was still stubborn and
getting chewed up buy the channel locks. I got smart and
finally put a pipe wrench on the screw head and it came out
perfectly (albeit chewed mightily). I replaced the plastic
with a piece I'd gotten from Scot Satterlund and the window
now rolls up and down easily like the driver's side. I
did find out why the front of the window sits lower than the
rear: the regulator inside the door has rotated on its
mount and isn't locating the front window guide high enough.
I may take a look at the 70 to see if it's got a regulator in
a little better shape.
08/07/98:The clutch seems to be working fine, so I
bolted the flywheel cover back into place. There's a smear
of oil that looks like it's weeping from the back end of the
oil pan gasket, but it's not enough to worry about.
08/06/98:Wiper done. I cleaned up the motor from the
'70 and am using it in place of the '68's. before, the passenger
wiper was faster than the drivers, now this one is even faster
than before. I think I need to clean and relube the driver's side
motor to bring up the sweep speed a little, but that can be saved
for another day entirely.
08/04/98:Tidbits. I pulled the passenger wiper motor
from the '70 yesterday, and took it apart today. What a simple
but effective unit. I pulled the non-working one from the '68
today and after taking the top off of it, I saw a bunch of
white sludge caked all around. I have no idea what turned the
grease into this, but it pulled a bit of the cork off the
side of the internal flap, so I'll piece together the '70's
motor with the '68's to get a working unit. I also fabricated
a little 'U' to help cover most of the hole in the firewall, and
I'll Marine Tex the gaps tomorrow.
08/01/98:It Moves!! I finally found a combination
that allows the clutch to work 'properly' while not having the
throwout bearing constantly riding on the clutch fingers. The
large linkage that runs parallel to the firewall had a hole
already drilled in it about two inches lower than the top hole,
so I sawed down on the bulkhead that the master-cylinder attaches
to (where the threaded rod from the clutch pedal passes through).
Once I had two lines cut on either side of there the clevis attaches
to that rod, I bent the metal don and back into the cab area.
Reconnected all the clevis pins and after a little more adjusting,
had everything in a working order. I had to keep the .080" washers
between the pressure plate and the flywheel to give me the clearance,
and after a few more visual checks, I took it around the block for its
'maiden' voyage. I noticed that the oil pressure ran more normal at idle
after this test run, which also made me a little more comfortable.
As I was giving it its pre-inspection inspection, the passenger wiper
didn't want to work. As soon as I can fix this and put some
fiberglass on the hole in the firewall, I'll be ready for the real
state inspection. It's so close, it almost hurts...
07/29/98:More Clutch woes. I've done a bit of
cutting and grinding and filing to get the firewall clearance
for the clutch linkage, but now I can't seem to get the
throwout bearing to fully engage the clutch fingers (without
having it ride on the fingers the whole time). I may need to
drill a hole (in the link that the threaded rod from the pedal)
a little lower than the present one so that the pdeal produces
more 'throw' than it is right now. I'm going to try what
someone on the digest mentioned regarding putting some .080"
washers between the pressure plate mounts and the flywheel first.
07/28/98:Clutch woes. Of course, I'm beside myself
trying to get the thing rolling under its own power, but the
clutch linkage is taking forever to get right. I'll need to buy
another piece of grade 8 threaded rod to make the pedal attachment
reach far enough. *sigh*
07/27/98:IT LIVES (part II)! More connections on the
electrical and a bit more re-routing of the heater hose and the
valve exiting the water neck. The throttle linkage was run and
oil was put in. Another once over to make sure I'd not forgotten
anything and I poured some gas into the carb throat. A few cranks,
and it was fired (for a moment). I had forgotten to seal the vacuum
that runs the wipers from the fuel pump, and the vacuum advance on
the carb. attached the proper hoses and all was purring smoothly.
I had an oil pressure reading of 20 psi at idle and 50 at higher RPMs
(I just wish my guage would reflect the change in pressure on the dash).
All that needs to be done now (I'm jinxing myself with that line) is to
cut the firewall for the clutch linkage and I can get it inspected!
07/26/98:Back from vacation. I put the carb
on and hooked up the fuel lines. I also ran the vacuum lines
so that the routing was out of the way and looked more neat
in the engine bay. The '68's radiator and the shroud from
the '70 went into place and the assorted water hoses were
reattached. The alternator went on, but the 196 belt was
a tad longer than the one I'd purchased for the 152. New belt,
no problem. I hooked up most of the wiring before the darkness
set in and the mosquitoes came out in force.
07/18/98:The engine is in! It took a lot longer
than I'd anticipated, though. The 196 was ready except for
mounting the pressure plate and clutch disk on the flywheel,
and also putting the 152's motor mounts on it (the '70 used a
mount that sat flat against a thick rubber oval mount, the
'68 uses a mount that is angled at about 60 degrees and has
a rectangular urethane mount. Pulling the old engine out
meant having to brace the tranny/xfer case with a jack, and
disconnecting the front driveshaft. We rolled the tranny back
enough to clear the bellhousing and started using the equalizer
bar to lift the nose of the engine. Once it was out, I went to
work on the clutch and my friend Chuck worked on the motor
mounts. All was ready shortly thereafter, and we began dropping
in the 196. This is where we spent a lot of time. We tried to
shorten the chains going through the equalizer bar before we
started and this was causing the bar to catch on the cowling at
the back of the engine compartment. We propped up the engine one
end at a time and removed the equalizer bar altogether since we
didn't need to do any more angling of the engine itself. Once we
got it seated on the mounts, then the task of putting the tranny
to the bellhousing presented itself. We really could have used a
true tranny jack, because we had another incident of Chuck's head
almost getting in the way of an unstable tranny/x-fer case. After
that drama had been solved, the tranny mated to the bellhousing and
the crossmember and tranny mount bolts were tightened to spec. By
this time, nearly 5 hours had passed and I needed to get the hoist
back to its owner so I could get Chuck on his way home. I kept
putting on parts like the starter, exhaust manifold, water pump,
and the clutch linkage. Of course, the 196 linkage is different,
so it hits the firewall before it engages at all, so I've got to
make a few incisions to clearance it, and then make the hold look
like it was designed to be there. It's definitely not going to
make to to the beach for my vacation. :-(
07/16/98:Just about there. More connections were
made, including the crankcase vents and fuel pump to intake
connection. I tapped the rear main seal into place and
bolted on the clutch mount/coil mount onto the intake
manifold. I couldn't remember how the rod went so I had to
consult a pic. I think all the vent tubing will clear the
clutch stuff with no problems. Once that's done, it's ready
for tomorrow morning.
07/15/98: Bolting on more parts. The fuel pump was
attached and I discovered that the carb from the 152 had a
different bolt pattern that would not go onto the 196 intake.
I cleaned the old carb and put it on. The new valve I got
that sticks out of the water neck now interfered with the
throttle linkage, so I had to clearance the valve body by
using the Dremel tool a tad. I think I've got it so that I
can get both full throttle and not have it stick wide open.
I got a couple of 90 degree elbows for routing the crankcase
venting tubes from the intake, so that it will look a little
cleaner than original. I got the rear mail seal out using a
flat-blade screwdriver. Just stick it in and slap it down.
The seal will deform, so move the driver to another spot and
repeat. DOn't worry about destroying the seal, only worry
about scoring the crank itself as you insert the blade under
the seal. I'll put the seal in tomorrow and put the flywheel
on.
07/14/98: I did a little more work getting the truck
ready to accept the engine. I unbolted the exhaust manifold and
got a few of the rust spots off before spraying it again with the
BBQ paint. I put the battery tray in from the '70, so I'll have
a secure mount unstead of the plank of wood being used before. I
used a punch to pin-punch around the shaft that the clutch fork
attaches to. There was a little play at the ends, and that cinched
the tolerances up perfectly. I think that was the cause for the
rattle I noticed at speed on the 152, and I'm hoping that this will
keep the rattle from returning on this one.
07/12/98:The valley pan came off and I put the lifters in
the easy way. I then used some of the Right Stuff gasket maker. It
looks like this stuff will do the job of keeping the oil in much
better than the permatex did on the 152. Once that was buttoned
back into place, I used a 3/8" drive universal joint equipped 9/16"
socket to tighten the intake bolts to the head. The rocker arm
shaft went on next (I couldn't find one that didn't have wear under
the exhaust rocker for cylinder #3). The valve cover went into
place and I called it a day.
07/11/98:Much more success. Okay, the trick is to take
a 3/8" (I believe) drill bit and twist it into the oil seal finger
about half an inch or so and then just pull it out. I knew I'd
remember how I did it eventually. I used LocTite red on the old
rod bolts since my IH dealer wanted $20/bolt and $6/nut for the parts
numbers I gave him. They were very unhelpful this time (my contact
there has left the company :-{). I buttoned the oil pan on and
had some friends help me set the engine back to horizontal. I put
on the head and the valley cover, but then realized that I'd forgotten
to put the lifters back in. Oh, well, I've always wanted one of the
lifter installer tools. :-) Once I get them in and find a 1/2" drive
9/16" universal socket, I'll put the intake manifold back on and it'll
be ready for the re-install. It's got to be ready by next week since
I'm heading to the Outer Banks for vacation! Keep your fingers crossed
for me.
07/7/98:Rear oil seal. This is being much more stubborn
than the one I did on the 152. The little seal fingers that go on
each side of the bearing cap are reluctant to come out like the
other ones did. It looks like I'll have to get a bit creative
now. I tried taking the cap off, but it requires a puller due
to the tight tolerances. The saga continues...
06/23/98:Cylinder head is back. Got it back from the
speed shop that was going through it. All systems are go and
it had hardened seats in it already (saving me a bit of cash).
It's gotten it's first coats of red paint.
06/04/98:Oil pan finished. After another hour of wire
wheeling the oil pan, it's stripped and has it's first coat of
red paint applied. I also scavenged the battery tray out of the
'70 since the '68's was a piece of wood. It's been stripped
(although heavily pitted with rust) and had it's first coat of
primer applied. I'm hoping to get some spray on Plastidip to coat
it with to prevent corrosion. I also decided to paint the
timing gear cover red instead of leaving it in its aluminum
color. Same goes for the oil filter mount.
05/28/98:I've been lazy. Well, not actually with regard
to getting stuff accomplished on the engine, but with jotting
the progress down here. In the last month, I've managed to
get the oil pan off, but couldn't get a wrench to pull the
rod caps off due to still not being mounted on the engine stand
(it's resting on 2x4's). I stood the block on the flywheel end and
now have full access to all the spots I need to get to. I pulled
the #4 rod bearing cap and the bearing is in pristine shape.
I also got all the gunk stripped from the outside of the block
and have coated it in red paint as it was originally. I'm
still debating on whether to paint the timing gear cover or
leave it in its natural aluminum color. I've gotten the
head into a machine shop and am having them go through it and
also put in hardened seats to make it lead-free-friendly.
I cleaned the old fuel pump up, and pulled the old one from
the dead engine. The one originally from my truck is in a
little better shape, so I'll use that when the time comes. I also
started removing more stuff from the dead engine to ease
dropping the 196 in when the time comes for the swap. Items
like the radiator, water pump, electrical connections/alt, carb,
and anything else besides the motor mounts have been loosened or
removed.
04/29/98:More rust removal, and I'd just gotten all
the rust dust removed from the garage a couple of months ago.
At least this time the film of dust won't be as thick. I got
the intake cleaned and the first coat of paint applied to it.
I figured I might as well just keep as much of the original
parts together as possible. I also removed the starter and
flywheel so I could start cleaning them as well.
04/27/98:I still haven't gotten any arms made for the
stand I borrowed from my friend, so I propped the block in the
back and on the pulley at front so I could get the oil pan off
so I could start to check the bearings and whatnot. Of course,
the block is sitting pretty close to the ground, so I'm not sure
if I'll be able to tell much as it sits.
04/26/98:I bought another wire-wheel assortment to do a
better job on the intake. There's still much caked on gunk to
remove before I can paint it. They did work well on the valley
cover that had been repainted baby blue (like the oil pan, too).
04/24/98:More wire wheel on the intake manifold. The part
numbers between the 152 and the 196 are different (of course). I'm
going to pull the 152's manifold and compare it, but I may just take
some rough measurements and compare it to the 196's.
04/20/98:The next item for the stripper is the intake manifold.
There are a bunch more nooks and crannies to it compared to the last three
items, but it's progressing, at least. I'm going to check the part numbers
to see if my current intake on the 152 will interchange (I think it will),
since it's already cleaned and has new freeze plugs installed.
04/19/98:The valve cover has its first coat of red paint applied and
looking good. I rebuilt the last two lifters and out of the bunch, only one
was stuck in the compressed state. I took the wire wheel to the water neck and
thermostat housing and applied the first coats of paint to them as well.
04/18/98:I started stripping the rust and crud from the valve cover.
Other than that, I scraped the part of the block under the valley cover and
rebuilt all but two of the lifters (ran out of time).
04/14/98:Gunk-o-plenty. I started cleaning the rocker arm shaft
and it fought me the whole way. The grime had built up very well inside the
stands that attach to the head. After some soaking in mineral spirits and
some banging with a wood block, the stubborn ones came off. Under the
fifth, sixth, and a little of the seventh rocker arms, the shaft had worn
and scored from the motion of the rockers. I'll need to find another shaft
before I put it back together. The bushing in the rocker arm looks fine,
though. Hopefully, someone will have a shaft they don't need that they can
send to me.
04/12/98:More teardown. I took a wire brush to the side and front of
the block now that the oily gunk is mostly gone. I'll rinse it with alcohol
before I paint it just to make sure I've gotten all the gunk off. I got the
head removed (and forgot about the coolant that was left in it until it gushed
out). I had planned on re-ringing the pistons, and there is no ridge at the
tops of the cylinders so it should be a very easy job. I'm toying with the
idea of having new valves and hardened exhaust seats put in while it's apart.
Thus, the machine shop could dip it to clean it instead of me having to do it.
Can you say 'Sludge build-up? Sure, I knew you could.'
04/11/98: Teardown time. More parts got cleaned. I've found that
carb cleaner does wonders when used with an old toothbrush to get into the
nooks and crannies. The timing gear cover is actually shining again. I got the
last stuck bolt off the exhaust manifold finally.
04/6/98:The cleanup begins. Instead of having to clean just a bunch
of rust as on the '68's motor, This one is caked with oily mud. I've let
two soakings of degreaser do it's thing and it's helpd a bit. I forgot to
get compression readings from it before I took the engine out, but I think
I'm gonna replace the rings anyway since I've got it apart like this. Once
I mount it to the stand, I'll drain the oil and check the bearings to see
if there are any gotchas before I start investing any cash into it. It's
amazing how much lighter the intake manifold seems when you don't have to hunch
over a fender to take it off!
04/4/98:Heave HO! Well, the engine is finally out of the '70. Of
course, the engine stand I borrowed from a friend didn't quite work as well
as I'd planned. The bottom two support brackets that attach to the block
weren't long enough to reach across the the bolt holes. I've got a friend
that may be able to fab soem longer versions so I can at least mount it instead
of letting it rest of a couple of 2x4's laying across the stand.
03/14/98:Yes, I'm alive. After waiting months for the weather to
give me a non-freezing Saturday, I was able to start pulling pieces off the
'68 in preparation for the engine swap. All the electrical connections are
out of the way, alternator's off, and the radiator and hoses are drained
and removed. All that remains is unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing,
and unbolting the motor mounts. I plan on taking as many pieces off the bad
engine (water pump, alternator, etc) as possible since most are still new.
Now, if I can just find a friend to let me borrow an engine hoist, I can get
this one out of the way (preferable to renting one since I can use the extra
$$ for new gaskets and the like on the 196 before it goes in).
01/10/98:Oil out. Drained the oil, and there is no hint of water in
the system, but the radiator is low on fluid for some reason. Anyway, after
draining the oil, I dropped the pan and found some tinfoil-thickness pieces
of metal about the size of a quarter, and a bunch of shavings in the bottom of
the pan, and the big pieces have that bluish, high-temp coloring to them. I
pulled the main bearing caps, and the center cap looked a little copperish in
the middle. I pulled the second and fourth bearing caps next, and the bearings
in each were galled, and the journal under the fourth had some smooth grooves
worn into it. Looks like I'll have to pull the engine anyway, now.